Fixed Hardware Pilot Program
The unregulated placement of bolts became a topic of controversy in the Flatirons in the late 1980’s. Concerned with increasing numbers of climbers, the proliferation of bolts and conflicts between climbers and other user groups, the City of Boulder Mountain Parks Department instituted a ban on the placement of new fixed anchors in the Flatirons in 1991.
In 2003 a pilot program for the placement of new fixed anchors was developed by the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) and agreed to by the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks Department (OSMP) for select areas on Dinosaur Mountain. The program established a permit process that allows the climbing community to comment on proposed routes that require fixed gear, and is similar to the fixed hardware review process in Eldorado Canyon. In 2006, the pilot program was significantly expanded under a new Memorandum of Understanding
(4Mb) which was signed on March 9th. Additional areas on Dinosaur Mountain
were established as well as four completely new sites(see full pilot plan map
). These complete list of areas is as follows:
Dinosaur Mountain
Der Zerkle
- the West and South sides
Red Devil
- South side
The Box
- West and North sides
Finger Flatiron
- North side
The Hand
- West side
Der Freischutz
- West side
Gregory Canyon Amphitheater
- All sides(does not include ridges to the West)
Third Flatiron
- North side
Seal Rock
- North side
The Slab
- West side
The expanded pilot program will be in effect for a two year period, at which time it will be evaluated for its effectiveness.
The permit process operates under the guiding belief that individuals can no longer take unilateral actions that affect all climbers without community input and consensus. Toward this end, the permit process exists as a public forum to assist and regulate the installation of fixed anchors with the goal of facilitating controlled growth of quality routes and anchors in the Flatirons.
The FCC will administer the permit process through its Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC), and will serve in an advisory capacity only. OSMP will make the final determination as to whether new routes that require bolts are allowed.
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